1. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    Got the new $14 carburetor installed on my min-ATV yesterday. I haven't even adjusted the idle mixture screw and it idles smooth. I did have to slack off on the throttle cable adjustment and adjust the idle speed from where I had adjusted the cable with the original carb to get the RPMs up. I guess from where it was idling too rich.

    Sounds much quieter, runs better and no longer smokes and it cranked up this morning around 40F but required a bit of coaxing. I think it's like the Trabant where if you close the chock off too much , it won't start so you have to find a sweet spot based on how cold it is. It seems with the choke half closed if the best spot. On a 70F day, it probably wouldn't even need the choke.

    I haven't fitted the new rear shock absorber yet. I got some of that camo vinyl wrap to cover up the pink paint on the plastic fender flares.

    [​IMG]

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  2. Ron

    Ron Premium Member Forum Donor

    Hello all,

    Good thread this, here's our latest acquisition... not eastern bloc but Italian, a Tecnomoto Paciugo 'twist and go' dirt bike from (we reckon), around '75?

    WP_20170126_15_54_33_Pro - Copy.jpg


    Ran when we got it last month, currently awaiting new rings as compression was dire. The idea is for the boys to replace/repair components as they go, will need tyres, chain and sprocket, maybe forks etc... Great fun, and gotta love the twin-shock look! I get the impression it's quite a rare beast, but it uses a Franco Morini series 50cc, so engine bits are available at least.


    WP_20170126_15_54_59_Pro - Copy.jpg


    The boys want to show it next to Rosie and the Qek at the summer shows, I reckon it will fit in the Qek for transport.


    Cheers all, Ronnie.
    turbofiat124 likes this.
  3. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Yes that's are rare bike makes a nice change from the Chinese made pit bikes
    Ron likes this.
  4. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    I love these old bikes! That's cool!

    My Tomos TX-50 seems to be indestructible! I've yet to break anything on that bike. It seems to be mish-mash of Slovenian and Italian made parts. Dellorto carburetor, the wheels are also Italian and appear to be magnesium from the looks of where the paint has flaked off. I think the tires are Made in China but are 7 ply! The heavier shock I installed really helped the ride.

    Ignore the custom made exhaust system with the expansion chamber. That project didn't pan out too well....

    [​IMG]

    I got the "modified" shock absorber installed on my 110cc quad. I'm currently removing the plastic body in preparation for the camo wrap. About 25 screw/nuts! I'm going to have to split the front section down the middle with a jig saw to avoid having to remove the handlebars in order to get it off. I have yet to turn my 5 year old loose on the thing. I tried to give her control of the throttle one day while we were both on it but she wants to push it wide open from a stop! Luckily there is a stop screw I can turn to limit the throttle and it has a tether I can pull to kill the engine if she starts getting too crazy. I'm more concerned about the brakes. She used to battery powered rides that just stop on their own when you take your foot off the pedal.

    The two stroke roundup:

    [​IMG]

    One of these days I'll get around to fixing the Yugo....
  5. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    not another new toy just a different veiw of my car im calling it my trabuar i put the wheels off my mates jaguar im working on against my trabi,i think it looks good 20170315_164136.jpg

    Attached Files:

    Tim S and Ron like this.
  6. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    Still sorting out the bugs with the mini ATV. Apparently the broken swing arm bolt did more damage than I suspected. Eventually this happened:

    [​IMG]

    So I tore it apart to see what the deal was:

    [​IMG]

    I should have used an actual bolt but I cut down a piece of all-thread instead. Someone told me this damaged the bearing but I don't think so. I think the damage was already done. I was too lazy to go to Fastenal and ask for a 1/2 X 12" bolt so I went to Tractor Supply. They did not have one long enough. I figured if I asked for a 13 X 300 mm in this country, I'd get laughed at.

    Instead of rubber bushings in the frame, I found it uses bearings, a sleeve and an O-ring. The sleeve inside the frame mystifies me. It's 13 mm ID and the bearings are 13 mm ID. It must be part of the bushing that is chewed up.

    So how did they squeeze it through the bearing? Why does it have a groove for what looks like a snap ring? Unless the left hand bearing has a larger ID than the other side. And perhaps the snag ring is still inside the frame.

    [​IMG]

    Knocked the outer race out with a punch and hammer and pair of locking pliers. Knocked the other undamaged bearing out using the punch so I could get the numbers off the bearing to order new ones. less than $5.00 for two new bearings.

    [​IMG]

    Right side of swing arm shows no sign of damage. Looks like a bushing pressed into the swing arm.

    [​IMG]

    Left side where the damage occurred looks strange. As if something sheared off it. I'm starting to wonder if the sleeve is actually part of the bushing that sheared off.

    [​IMG]

    I can't figure out the purpose of the sleeve. Unless it's just there for a guide for the bolt to go through the swing arm and frame. Otherwise the bearings in the frame would be supporting the weight against the bolt.

    My plan is to grind down the rough edge on the bushing on the swing arm, pop the new bearings into the frame (after putting them in a freezer) and carefully press them in using a socket against the outer race. Then drive the proper bolt through the swing arm and frame and out the other end (also after being stored in a freezer).

    The other idea was to use a set of 1 1/16" OD polyurethane end link bushings from a sway bar instead of bearings. Easier and less of a chance of messing them up pressing them into the frame than bearings. But don't know how well they would hold up versus bearing.s

    They are about the same OD as the holes in the frame. I could machine them down a bit to fit in place of the bearings by enlarging the center hole for a metal bushing for a 1/2" bolt, placing them in my table drill and shaving some off the OD using a file. In other words a makeshift lathe.

    OH, I tried using that vinyl cammo wrap. It didn't work out that well. It doesn't work too well on curves. Maybe flat surfaces. The guys on YouTube make it look too easy!

    Apparently the release again the company used when they pull the bodies out of the mold, if not removed, causes the paint to not adhere the plastic very well.

    So I'm going to scuff up the body with a Scotch-Brite pad and use some sand-able primer and Rustoleum white gloss.

    [​IMG]
  7. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    Well, I used to think I was a Redneck but now I am a true bonafide certified Redneck!

    After riding my friend's Yamaha 4 wheeler, I decided I needed one myself. Larger than 110 ccs anyway! So after I looked at a few on Craigslist I found exactly what I was looking for. I had $1000 to spend on a toy so I was a bit limited to a non running piece of crap to a beat up piece of crap but runs with few bugs to sort out. $1000 is about as cheap as you're going to get when it comes to a running 4 wheeler.

    1997 Polaris Xplorer 300.

    Made in USA (not China)
    CVT automatic transmission
    300 ccs
    4 wheel drive on demand (button)
    high and low range

    And best of all:

    It's a 2 stroker!!

    Rear brake does not work but the fronts work well. Cooling fan is not kicking on, choke as to be closed to kill the engine and the warning lights do not work. Chains need adjusting but other than that it fires right up and runs great. So I got a few bugs to sort out.

    [​IMG]

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    Front rack is for your deer you killed, rear rack is for your cooler full of beer and your rifle and or shotgun...:D

    [​IMG]

    I've used this before on faded plastic and it works well. I don't know if I'd use this on paint though.

    [​IMG]

    Got one fender done but I need to remove the racks to do a better job. I need to spray the frame and motor down with kerosene and Blue Wolf cleaner and hit it with my pressure washer to remove 20+ years of dried grease. Seems the owner's of this thing and the owner of my Trabant had the same mentality in that department!

    [​IMG]
  8. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    now that looks like a load of fun! your lucky to have some where to ride it in the uk its not that easy you have to either own some land or have the land owners permission to ride and a lot dont want the hassle as it also has implications of a responsibility for injury
  9. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    I've got about 30 acres on my parent's property to ride mine on which was the remnants of my great grandfather's farm. Unfortunately most of it's a jungle. So I'm going to have to get Dad's tractor and mowing machine and create some trails.

    We have allot of trails here in the US to ride these things on. Allot of small towns have started ATV tourism to bring in money for the local economy and have created trails and will let you ride them for free or a small fee and will even let you drive them on public roads into town providing you stay on a designated route.

    Believe it or not, some states (Tennessee) will let you register and drive side by sides on the road (but not interstates) but they are limited to 45 mph. My friend is wanting to get a side by side but Virginia won't let you drive them on roads in his state.

    [​IMG]
  10. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    your lucky to have 30 acres to ride my house stands on 1/4 of an acre thats a lot for the uk as i live in a small rural village running a quad or bike around the garden rips the shit out the lawn
  11. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    Finally got the bugs worked out of the mini ATV, until something else breaks...

    Installed new bearings and a new bolt in the swing arm. Afterwards I noticed the chain was rubbing the swing arm and frame. Actually it was doing this before I got it. I slackened the chain a bit and when I sit on it, it doesn't hit the swing arm or frame. Some sort of teflon guide needs to be fabricated like I did with my other Chinese bike so when the suspension compresses the chain doesn't hit anyway. I'm not sure where I'm going to mount it.

    Odd that this only happens on Chinese made junk and not my Tomos.

    [​IMG]

    Painted the body.

    [​IMG]

    I was going to use the rear fog light that came off my Citroen but decided to use an LED brake light instead.

    [​IMG]

    Finally all put back together. Notice the access hole I cut in the foot rest for the oil level dipstick!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Issues fixed:

    1) Broken swing arm bolt and one bearing ($15)
    2) Rear shock, rod broke ($30)
    3) Carburetor ($14)
    4) Proper sized battery ($25)
    5) Choke lever/kill switch, choke lever broke ($10)
    6) Headlight bulbs ($2)

    Although I've spent about $100 on this piece of crap, it actually runs pretty good. It seems the engine is the best part about it. It fires right up and runs great. The biggest issue is the suspension and anything made of plastic.

    My daughter and I have had a great time zipping around the farm on this thing. So far my repairs are holding up, I don't know for how long though.

    Until the next thing breaks!

    Still sorting out the bugs on my Polaris 4 wheeler. It would be nice to buy a $1000 that didn't need any work but that seems to be a pipe dream.
  12. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Trial bikes have a plastic/rubber piece which fits on the end of the swing arm to stop the chain cutting through it these are cheap and readily available as Chinese pit bikes use them
  13. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    Well I've found a few chain guides but have no idea how to mount them. Here's a few I found:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Did some work on the Polaris today. I just about got all the bugs sorted out.

    New ignition switch
    Lights installed
    New petcock valve and new fuel hoses
    New oil hose
    Replaced brake light bulb (burned out)
    Adjusted rear chain
    Installed trailer hitch ball
    Installed rocker switch to engage front hubs (bypass handlebar switches)

    Eventually I'm going to add an LED light bar which will be connected to the high beam wires.

    While the back end was off the ground, I confirmed hand brake is operating the rear brake but the foot brake does has no effect . That's on the back burner for now.

    I *think* the four wheel drive is now working. I verified there was no power getting to the small wires going to the hubs (at the terminal block but not the actual hubs).

    I stopped in a muddy creek and I think I saw the front wheels turning. I tested going over that log I used to see if the AWD is working and it went right over it. If the AWD system is not working then this thing has excellent traction.

    I did not have a chance to put it up on jack stands to see if the front wheels will spin in AWD mode.

    I applied Lock-Tite to the fittings on the fuel and oil tank in an attempt to stop all possible leaks. I have no idea why the oil tank was leaking and the intermittent fuel leak. Hopefully those are now fixed. I'll know tomorrow if there are no puddles under it.

    One thing I need to do is either re-route the fuel hose or get some of that insulation stuff to cover the hose. It's touching/very close the cylinder head and I worry it might burn a hole through it and catch fire. I could not figure out the best way to route the fuel hose to the carburetor. It looks like someone had replaced it at one time or another so I have no idea how it was routed from the factory.

    I know this sounds redneck but I "sliced" clip that goes over the fuel tank and installed some of those rubber bonnet latches so I didn't have to remove the entire front clip to get the fuel tank off to work on the engine.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I did not take into account the air cleaner snorkel was going to conflict with the switch so I'm going to have to move the switch.

    [​IMG]

    Other things on my list:

    Change oil in transmission (full but dirty)
    Check/change fluid in front hubs
    Check brake pad thickness
    New seat cover

    BTW, I noticed the other day a sticker on the recoil starter that says "Fuji Heavy Industries" . Even though Polaris is made in the US, I did not know they bought out Polaris. So it's made by the same company as my American built Subaru! HA!

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2017
  14. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    both those chain tensioners should bolt to the swing arm and hang down wards so a slack chain can be used to allow for long suspension travel they take up the slack,the rubber ones which fit over the end of the swing arm just stop the chain running on the arm
  15. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    heres one of the rubber ones on my old dt its not easy to see as its black on a black frame chain tensioner 004.JPG chain tensioner 003.JPG chain tensioner 003.JPG
  16. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    chain tensioner 001.JPG heres my latest toy a 1969 88" land rover i bought this whilst on holiday in lanzarote,i was bored and looking on ebay and spotted it about 5 miles from my home and thought i could give it a new home and sort it out,i bought it as a non runner the seller didnt do much of a write up just saying it was in good condition,with rebiult suspension and new tyres ,came with all the parts to finish it and the starter motor had packed up,when i got it home i sorted the starter by refitting the loose ignition wire on the solinoid putting some fuel in and away it went,the list of jobs is not to long,fit new oil seals to the rear half shafts,connect the heater up,give the engine a clean as the previous owner sprayed it with oil to preserve it!,paint the front and rear springs black as the previous owner painted them red and black!why?fit the seal between the body and the roof and paint the inside of the roof this list will probaly grow as i get more into it but hopefully not to much,this now means that instead of welding and painting my trabis scuttle i will leave it as it is and just drive it like i did this weekend 4 up with the autojumble gear in the back to the local jumble 35 miles away it looked like you used to see on tv when the wall came down,we certainly got some looks as we puttered along the A1 it was my mate and daughters boyfreinds first time trabi ing and they enjoyed it,unlike my wife who said we looked a right sight as we smoked off the drive
  17. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

  18. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    That's a nice Land Rover. Did you buy it in that condition as a non-runner or did you restore it?

    Older Land Rovers are popular over here. They briefly sold the Defender about 15 years ago. But at twice the cost of a Jeep Wrangler with the same options it was a hard seller.

    Titling late model Defenders has older models as alerted the FEDs. I can't believe this falls under the same jurisdiction of Homeland Security. How can vehicles not DOT certificated be considered a thread. Shouldn't they be focusing their efforts on terrorists?

    Well a Defender is probably safer and burns cleaner than my Trabant but if it's not 30 years old then it's illegal.

    http://jalopnik.com/the-feds-just-seized-40-land-rovers-imported-to-the-u-s-1605985758
  19. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    I bought the Landy like this I've only got it running so far and cleaned the engine to get rid of the oil,I may be able to see where its oil leak is,as like all old landys if they don't leak oil it's because there's non in it
    Keri likes this.
  20. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    Got a theory on something with the mini ATV. After installing new swing arm bearings, bolt and shock, the chain tension tightened to the point to where the master link would barely fit with the chain over the sprockets. How could the chain tension change that much simply by replacing broken parts? I'm talking about if there was no more adjustment, I'd have to add a link to the chain.

    So after I struggled to get the chain on, this happened:

    [​IMG]

    This is not going to fly. Eventually the chain is going to rub into the swing arm and the frame. The chain had already rubbed into the frame when I got it.

    So I slackened the chain to where it no longer rubs the swing arm and frame but only when I am sitting on it. But I wonder if the chain still hits when I hit bumps and the spring decompresses? I guess I could take a marker and see if the chain is rubbing the ink off the swing arm and frame.

    As you know replacement parts for Chinese made stuff are unbranded, especially on Ebay. You pretty much have to go by photos and measurements to know if it fits. I thought that the busted shock was 300 mm long, however I may have measured it wrong. Or it may have come with the wrong length shock to begin with from the factory. Who knows. There is a 250 mm shock out there.

    If you notice in the photo, the chain is not "straight" or "aligned" with the sprockets. If I were to raise the swing arm and axle up a bit, the top end of the chain will move up and no longer touch the swing arm and the bottom part of the chain will move up as well and no longer rub the frame.

    I'm thinking the way to do this is to drop down to a 250 mm shock. 50 mm is roughly 2" and by eyeballing the setup looks like the rear end needs to be raised up about 2".

    The plan is to support the center of the quad with something, remove the shock and raise the rear end up a bit to see where the chain is aligned and not touching anything and measure the distance between the shock mounts and if it comes out to be 250 mm, then I know I have the wrong length shock.

    A cheaper alternative might be to just cut a few coils off the 300 mm shock itself?
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017

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