1. Bountyflyer

    Bountyflyer Premium Member Forum Donor

    Recently I got a reach out from Bill on how to remove the driveshafts or CV joint assemblies from a Barkas. The rest of the job is self explanetory so I won't bore you with pulling the engine out and disconnecting the sepeedo cable... But to remove the drive shafts you will need some info what I'm intended to provide here.
    First off you got to remove the wheels and jack the van up under the front arms. Here is a picture of the front hub assembly.

    image.jpeg

    The objective is to remove item 6, and 12. Then the whole assembly can be removed including brake drums and all. You will need to take the brake hoses and the rod tie rod ends off. Sounds easy right?
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2016
  2. Bountyflyer

    Bountyflyer Premium Member Forum Donor

    Out of the factory the pin removal was a mandatory 12 month lube and repair job to do. Then it's actually super easy to remove the pins. But unfortunatelly very few operators EVER pulled the pins out to clean and lube the bearings. Therefore it become one of the most unforgiving repair to do on the Barkas. I have to admit that I broke the puller trying to do it. I finally managed to make it happen but the puller is a wreck. Now that I did the procedure, I can pull them out with two fingers! The problem is that the old grease burns on the pin and growes together with the upper or lower part of the arm. If you brake the trhread inside the pin (where the grease fitting and the puller goes) then you'll have to throw away the arm because you'll have to cut it open to remove the pin.... The good news is that the pin is made out of a lot sronger material then anything else on the car, so usually the puller will go first.

    So you will find two M8 bolts (13mm wrench) near the greasing points. They hold a flat pace positioning plate in position. First remove the greasing balls then the positioning plates. Install the puller and start pulling the pins out. I had to warm mine up. Be careful how much heat you put on because you can damage the spacer bearings over and under the CV joint. (7,14 on the picture above) remember their orientation once you've removed the CV assembly. Also there is an upper and lower pin! One is shorter.
  3. Bountyflyer

    Bountyflyer Premium Member Forum Donor

    You can see the puller in action here. You can leave the brake drum on, you don't have to take anything else off other then the wheel and the brake hose.

    The inside of the puller is just a threaded rod with the same size of thread as the pipe thread on the greasing balls. Greasing balls come out, then the puller goes in to the pin. Then the pipe part of the puller goes on, then start turning the nut on the threaded rod and it will start rising. (Hopefully. Eventually...) the original puller has a hex head so thats what the picture shows. Thats where the top wrench goes.

    Good luck, if you have any questions, please post it.

    image.jpeg

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