1. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Your spot on there with the mot standards it's a pity more people don't pay at tension to them I've come across some well dodgey repairs the worst was sills made from cardboard and filler and one made from rags and filler which probably took longer to make than it would to replace with new steel
  2. mati0921

    mati0921 Loyal Comrade

    How to fix sills easy:
    1: fill in expanding pu foam.
    2: cut off anything that comes out the rust holes.
    3: spray sealer on it
    Done. :D

    Seen that a few times, and its not fun to repair proberby when MOT guy finds it with his pointy hammer. :)
  3. Andrew

    Andrew Most Powerful Leader Moderator Forum Donor

    Speaking of Rust, I took to my Kombi with a light pass with the wire wheel to figure out how much metal was actually left in the roof edging, turns out, even less then I had thought.
    I am not sure if I can save the roofing at all, as finding actual metal that can be welded on to is well.... difficult, and I will be there for 6 months worth of weekends just trying to patch one side, and this is based just on "better" side of the car.
    Haven't managed to do much proper investigation into the driver's side as the wall is in the way.

    Still a bit of a toss up at the moment, as what to do with it... I would very much like to try and save in one way or another, but my options are getting rather thin at the moment..

    Think I also figured out why the drivetrain was quite shaky on my last leg into sydney.
    [​IMG]

    Also figured out I was wrong about the Kombi having CV joints, when I dumping a lot of grease into the joints in Adelaide I thought I felt the cv gears, turns out I was wrong...
  4. Steve

    Steve Puttering Along

    Finally got both top swivel joint bushes reamed out ready for re-assembly. (Well only one actually, as the one fork which I was able to use again pressed in with hand pressure and a little grease. ) The other was a brand new one and needed a little coaxing from the reamer. So I see there should be 0.1 mm end play in the shaft. How the hell do you measure that? Then I have to get the drive shafts back in the hubs. One shaft came out with the inner wheel bearing attached, the other side inner bearing stayed in the hub. Gotta decide the best way how to get those back in place.
  5. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    Basically you shim it until there is a fraction of vertical movement you want to be able to feel it but not see it . But not so tight the nut binds ,must turn freely
  6. Steve

    Steve Puttering Along

    trabbipix.jpg Received and fitted my little funnels from China to correct the design flaw which contributed/caused the corrosion on my Trabbi underneath the battery area and corresponding area on the other side of the engine compartment. I was getting puddles of rain forming when parked on an incline due to bad drainage of the gutter around the bonnet edges. I just glued them with 5 minute epoxy under the existing holes for the rubber grommets which cushion the bonnet. Just cut off the bit of rubber that goes through the hole and stick it down nearby as on the pictures. If the epoxy doesn't make a waterproof seal then run some silicone sealant around the edges. Just attach a long enough plastic tube to run off the rainwater out of the affected area. View attachment 4905 View attachment 4905 trabbipix2.jpg
  7. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade

    What's wrong with the axle? What am I not seeing?

    On mine there is some play on the wheel end but the hinge pins are not worn. I took a video but has since deleted it. I can't stand to hear my voice after recording!

    I was trying to track down this thumping sound which seems to get worse as the temperature get's colder but never could track it down.

    I found no play in the wheel bearings. Could be the tires. Could be out of round or high spots in the drums.
  8. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Loyal Comrade


    I see what your talking about now. Mine had not rotted out in this location but since this seems to be vulnerable, I'll give mine a coating of the Eastwood's Rust encapsulator to prevent any potential corrosion. That way if water puddles, it won't penetrate the metal.
  9. Andrew

    Andrew Most Powerful Leader Moderator Forum Donor

    The pin at the end of the drive shaft, it is nowhere near centred and it is supposed to be, otherwise you are going to end up with a major wobble in the half shaft....


    Edit:
    I also tried to remove the last rear window out of the kombi tonight, and there was only a small gap between the car and the wall for me to position myself, anyway long story short, I pulled the last of the rubber out, and the immediately dropped the window all over the ground :( Luckily since I am going to be cutting the roof off, it doesn't really matter... other than I had to spend 30mins cleaning glass up...
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2017 at 7:47 AM
  10. mbeamish

    mbeamish Loyal Comrade

    Poor kombi ,on death row desperately hoping you will buy the kit and save it
  11. Steve

    Steve Puttering Along

    Fitted this little £15 gadget today because I am not really happy with the standard fuel tap setup. I have replaced the cork washer with 4 holes in it located in the fuel tap, with a factory rubber version, but tightening the 2 screws which hold the assembly makes it hard to turn the tap on and off with the bit of wire rod from the under dashboard control. If I unscrew the 2 screws sufficiently to make it usable, then petrol leaks from it. So I decided to bypass this system, turn the tank fuel tap permanently on and have an inline solenoid operated fuel tap which opens on ignition turn on. I just wired the plus side to one of the ignition coils, and the negative to the body (fixing screws). trabipix3.jpg
  12. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    I fubd if you smear petrolium jelly(vaseline)on the rubber seal it turns easier its a bit late now for you now tho

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