1. In order to combat the SPAM challenges we have been facing, I have chosen for the registration of new forum members to be manually approved. If you are registering as a new member, please fill out your profile as much as your comfortable doing. By doing this it shows us that you are not a spammer and will ensure that you’re registered to the form quickly. Should you be denied by mistake, please reapply with a fully completed profile
  2. I have received a lot of messages asking about the future of the forums once my car sells. Well today it sold and will soon be on its way to its new home. With that said, for the forums, there is more information under 'Announcements" titled "Future of the Forums' you could also copy and paste this link: http://www.trabantforums.com/threads/future-of-the-forums-donations.1762/
  1. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I've been meaning to de-carbonize the cylinder head and piston crown on mine. I thought I'd try this.

    I considered resurfacing the head. I've done this on lawnmower heads. I'll mark the mating surface with a maker then take a piece of glass from an 8X10 picture frame and tape a piece of 220 grit sandpaper over the glass and rub in a circular motion until all the ink is gone.

    Is this overkill?
  2. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    I had to order a set of H4s from the U.K. Shipping was around $20 but from Germany shipping was $60 (more than the headlights themselves)! Which is always the case.

    Seems like the ones I bought off Ebay were listed for a Morris Minor!

    H4s meant to replace cars with US sealed beams headlights won't fit the housings on European models. The alignment slots are different. Back when H4s were not yet approved for US roads, and were sold as "For off road use only", I have cut new alignment slots in the housings with a Dremel tool to make them fit. But for some reason I couldn't manage to get a set to fit my Trabant.

    US cars have a ring with three screws that holds them in place. Where the Trabant uses the clamp and spring method.
  3. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade



    A couple of photos may help, Stu. This is how mine is plumbed. The gauge lights should increase as you use more fuel and go out as you back right off the gas. The fitment in the tank is just a vent pipe and goes to a T piece in the main supply pipe from petcock to flow meter.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 13, 2018
    IronJaw likes this.
  4. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    Thanks Steve, is that just a standard Banjo bolt in the vent then? Should the tank grave a threaded hole to receive it?
  5. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    Yes just use a banjo bolt to fit the thread in the tank.
  6. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    After a stressful week at work it was nice to spend the weekend messing with the Trabi. On Saturday morning I whizzed down to Cannock to meet Andy off here to get a few bits. Replacement Dash because mine had been butchered, Trim panels because mine are butchered ones and the all important ignition switch to replace the butchered one!

    The dash was a bit rusty and rough, so I wire wheeled it with my grinder and gave it several coats of primer followed by several coats of satin black. It came up like new, and looks great in the car.

    The ignition switch was a good experience. I spent some time translating my wiring diagram to work out what goes where and was pleased to get the parking lights working again in the process. I then went to screw it to the back of the lock and was pleased to find the two screws required were lying on the oddments shelf. It's all working great and the steering lock is functional too so now I've got two steering locks; the original and the stop lock. So much better than having an ignition dangling on wires under the dash.

    I'll look at the trim panels as the week goes on, and I'm also hoping to find a few minutes to get a look at the brakes to see if I need shoes when I put my first order into Germany.

    One last thing, I've got two random blue wires I don't know what they're for. One is connected to a flasher unit which I've pointed an arrow at in the picture and the other seems to come out of the left hand A pillar. If anyone has any idea what they are I'd love to know. Thanks!

    Dash Small.jpg Small Dash 1.jpg Arrow.jpg
    Steve likes this.
  7. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    These last few days i have been replacing the other rear wheel tub. Both done and should last a few years now.
    RogerDerSchrauber likes this.
  8. turbofiat124

    turbofiat124 Premium Member Forum Donor

    Concerning the flasher unit. First of all, I'm not sure why the color scheme seems to change so often on these cars. The color scheme on my 81 model does not match the wiring diagram for some reason. Unless I have the wrong diagram for my model, yet the other wires do match.

    It doesn't appear as though someone used the wiring from a different car when making electrical repairs.

    I do know that on a flasher unit there is an input and an output wire. Sometimes there is a third connector on the flasher unit that goes to the indicator in the speedometer. Sometimes this wire is tied to the output pin on the flasher unit.

    So does your indicator light work in the dashboard?
  9. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    Hi, Yes my indicator light works in the dash and and matches the flashes outside the car. I've got a wiring diagram here, but as you say the colours change every so often and it's difficult to work out what's what. I'm going out to play with the car today so will have a poke around and report back later on.
  10. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Do you have a towbar fitted or are there sign of one previously fitted? Does the wire end up behind the side panels in the boot?
  11. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Fitted new rear shock absorbers. Old ones sounded like they were going to be ripped apart by the spring.
  12. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    Sorry for late reply, I’ve been busy at work this week, and I’m doing a shift today too. Yes, there is a tow bar and the blue wire does appear in the boot area behind the side panels. I’ve not tested the tow bar yet, I will be leaving it fitted.

    I’ll be placing my first order with a parts supplier later, looking forward to getting some bits!
  13. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Some one as possibly added the wire for the trailer indicators. A cheaper option than the specific Trabant relay with extra terminals for towbar.
  14. Steve

    Steve Loyal Comrade

    Right, well last Saturday, I took the 1970 Trabbi to the IFA club meet at Foxfield railway, Blyth Bridge, Staffs. and on the way it started misfiring, gradually getting worse, until we arrived on one cylinder only. I changed the plugs for new ones and all seemed ok ready for the 60 mile cruise in convoy around the Peak District. Well no, all was not well at all. We got as far as Leek and then had to drop out because of the misfire. We limped home on one cylinder all the way back to Nottingham. Disappointed because it let me down, I haven't touched it all week until today. It wouldn't start at all, and so I started checking the points which looked ok. Then I pulled at the spade connectors from the condensers and found one was pretty loose and hardly grabbing at all. I decided this was the root of the problem and tightened up both spade connectors. Only to find it still would not start. Plugs out and checked each for a spark. The new plug was not sparking at all! So I replaced it with a good looking older used one, put it all back together and she started! Wow, blue smoke , more like blue fog, as the unburnt residue made itself known. It was running and idling ok so I took it for a 10 mile drive, with blue haze behind me, but eventually it went away and drove as normal.

    So beware if you have a similar problem, it could be those nasty spades coming loose and making intermittent contact then losing all contact on one cylinder.

    So tomorrow (Sunday) we're off to Motors at the Mine at Pleasley, Mansfield, to a classic car show, to display there.
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2018
  15. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    I've not been on for a while because I've been busy with a few things. One of the biggest was I started a new job and career in the middle of July so I've been distracted with that. Previously I was a Bus & Coach driver and I was well experienced in my field having achieved quite a lot in the ten years I did it, however I fell out of love with that profession about 4 years ago. I'm now working in the motor trade as a Service Advisor at a prestigious car dealership who retails expensive German cars. After trying so long and so hard to get out of driving for a living, I was finally given my chance. :D

    Anyway now the dust has settled over that I was able to turn my attention back to my Trabant, and progress is not good. :( I've run into a few snags, one major. I ordered a full set of brakes and hoses from Trabantwelt and set about trying to fit them but found I was lacking the correct sized sockets to get the hub nuts off. That was a surprise! Then I discovered the brakes were in bad order and cylinders leaking so I was wise to order the full hit. Then I discovered the person who undersealed the car obviously didn't understand how underseal is supposed to work. I'm going to have to get the underneath steam cleaned or something because a lot of it is actually caked on mud and dirt with underseal painted on top of it. :mad:

    I decided to clean up my front bumper, and paint it as it had rust creeping in around the top. Boy I wish I'd left that alone! :oops: I looked at how it was fixed to the car and set about undoing the bolts. All four snapped and are not coming out. Then I discovered yet more underseal painted onto rust and basically I'm going to need new front corner pieces welding in. I was hoping there wouldn't be any welding to do on this car but obviously that's not the case. As I can't weld I'm now going to have to get it to someone who can, so time to get the trailer back out.

    I'm still keen on the car though, I don't hate it for this. I was just hoping I'd be able to get it on the road sooner than later.
  16. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    Rust it seems is never far away on a trabi or any old car for that matter especially in the uk
  17. Austinpowers

    Austinpowers Loyal Comrade

    Just spent some time installing a camber correction kit on the rear end of my Trabi. So now it looks a little less comical from the back. And the handling is a lot more stable. Definitely a worthwhile modification to do to any Trabi.
  18. Andrewwoey

    Andrewwoey Loyal Comrade

    Yes the front corners where the bumpers bolt to, do rot. I have mine to do, on my next works holiday.
    Any previous owners bodges or just plain, hide the rot, is a total pain. My next door neighbour buys rot boxes, tarts them up and sells them. I seen him filling the inner sills of his last car with a tub of filler! I felt sorry for the person he sold it to.
  19. kev the builder

    kev the builder Loyal Comrade

    If you lower the suspension it also reduces the positive camber at the rear,I've bought a couple of cars where they've been bodged with filler on my morris minor the filler had been beaded up to look like weld it must have took longer to do that than weld it up and that was done by an aircraft engineer I don't know which airline he worked for but it doesn't fill you with confidence
  20. IronJaw

    IronJaw Puttering Along

    Well I began working on the car at 12:00 this afternoon and by 17:00 I’d arrived at a conclusion. This car needs a full restoration. I’ve found a lot more rust than I’d like, the rear arches are crap, the sill ends are shot and the front corners are on their way as there are perforated bits.

    So I’m putting this on hold for the rest of August whilst I prepare for this event. I need to clear out some crap, get my garage prepped and in order and do my research.

    Fun times ahead.

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